Part II · The grapes · 2 min

Reading a variety you have never met

There are 10,000 wine grapes. Three things on the label get you most of the way with any of them.


The useful skill isn’t memorising varieties. It’s being handed an unfamiliar bottle and working out roughly what is inside from the information on the label. Three pieces of information get you most of the way.

One: how warm was it

Latitude, altitude and distance from a cold ocean tell you the ripeness, and ripeness dictates almost everything else.

Cool climateWarm climate
AcidityHighLow
AlcoholLower, 11–13%Higher, 14%+
Fruit characterTart, red, citrus, herbalRipe, black, tropical, jam like
Tannin (reds)Firmer, sometimes greenRiper, rounder
BodyLighterFuller

This one table explains most blind tasting deductions. A red that’s tart, light and herbal came from somewhere cold. A white that’s soft, broad and tropical came from somewhere hot.

Two: how thick were the skins

You can often tell by looking. Deep opaque colour means thick skins, which means substantial tannin and a wine built to age - Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec. Pale colour means thin skins, low tannin and a wine to drink sooner - Pinot Noir, Grenache. Nebbiolo is the exception that proves you should check the other clues too.

Three: what did the winemaker add

Two winemaking choices leave obvious fingerprints. Oak contributes vanilla, coconut, clove, toast and smoke - none of which come from grapes. Malolactic conversion contributes a buttery, creamy note, particularly obvious in Chardonnay. If you smell either, you’re smelling a decision rather than a place.

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27 varieties

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